My 11th grade English teacher once told me to start pieces of writing with a gripping anecdote. So, here’s my best shot:

On one of the early days of my bike trip, I was feeling pretty good (hah I felt good on more than one day don’t worry). That morning, I flew down a gorgeous road ride and stopped for a scrumptious pumpkin cheesecake muffin at the Reefton Bakery and Tearoom. I knew I had a big trail day ahead of me, but I felt confident. Word on the street was that my day would include 2-3 hours of walking my bike due to un-rideable trails but my hope was to whittle that down through sheer determination. And so far, I was succeeding! The trail started off as a 4 wheel drive road, which got a little chippy, but I was managing to slowly but surely bike up. Less than 2-3 hours walking, easy. Well not easy, but possible.

Okay I’m cranking away and see a car ahead so I pull over to the side. Eventually 8 cars slowly meander by me and the people in every single one roll down their window to chat. One woman gives me that ol Kiwi smile and goes “Wow! You’re one tough lady!” At this point, I’m feeling pretty good. I’m like yeah, feminism let’s go. I am tough! And a lady! So I keep on chugging for a while feeling like just maybe, the day won’t be as difficult as I imagined. After a climb, I pull off to the side to fuel up. As I’m eating cheese roll number 4 out of 6 in the package (a prized resource) I check the map to see my epic progress. It dawns on me not only that I’ve somehow gone on an incorrect side road for such a long time, but that the turn off was just before I ran into the cars. I’m like lady, I appreciate the support, but next time hype me up and point me in the right direction. With a sigh, I pack up my remaining 2 cheese rolls, hop on my bike and roll back in the direction I came from. Of course, I’m by myself, so I just say out loud “massssive L” and chuckle.

Okay, I’m not sure how gripping that was. But, I feel like it does a pretty good job of capturing my attitude on this trip. Definiteeely some mistakes and trip-ups occurring, but ultimately you gotta chuckle and keep on moving (and talk to yourself, I’m learning).

I guess I never introduced my bike trip formally. Normally, I don’t reallyyy like to declare my outdoor intentions before completing a task (much to my parents’ chagrin). So, that omission was no accident. But, now that it looks possible, I can say that I’m riding the South Island section of the Tour Aotearoa (you can look it up if you’d like). There’s a cool community and following behind the route, which was originally designed by the kiwi Kennett Brothers who linked together many of the existing long-distance trails to traverse the length of the two islands. It’s sweet because when I roll through towns people are like “are you doing the TA??” and I can proudly say “yeah, that’s the plan!” unlike when someone asked me if I had just finished the PCT and I, in fact, had just showered and thought I looked pretty put together that day. Oh well.

Over the past week, all I’ve done is bike. So, here’s some tidbits from that!

• Skills that I have yet to master include steering, putting my water bottle back in its cage, and staying upright while clipped in. I pull the classic stationary topple over probably once a day, and I dropped my water bottle on the road today only for it to get swiftly run over by a semi. Like I said, sometimes you just gotta chuckle.
• Rural New Zealand is like rural America but weirder. Words honestly can’t do it justice
• I’m writing to you from Fox Glacier which is a bit more than halfway down the South Island. I’ve tackled most of the trails and now have some (hopefully) big smooooth road days left. It’s also just so gorgeous out here!! Seeing beaches then glaciers then the coast then snowy mountains all in mere days is wild.
• Wind is enemy #1. It makes me mad, which is super annoying. Grumpy riding is just no fun. Plus, I start swearing at the wind out loud when I’m really displeased and that’s just not a good look. Luckily (sarcasm), New Zealand mostly gets Southerlies which means the wind is always blowing against me as I’m literally riding south, always.
• Contrary to the popular opinion of my friends who have been regaled by my stories of fatigue, I actually love biking. I remember this every day of riding, but one example is seeing the true mountains for the first time riding into Hari Hari. What beauts! And, anytime I go downhill (on roads). Wheeeeee
• A highlight is definitely the West Coast Wilderness Trail. It runs between Hokitika and Ross, and it winds through these super cool temperate rainforests filled with palm trees and ferns. It’s also designed (I’ve decided) for middle aged people on E-bikes. This is awesome first because it makes for a super pleasant ride and second because it means you run into said middle-aged people who give you a sandwich and offer to “mama bird” you because they also live in Wanaka — a pretty weird offer to be sure but one I will happily accept. (Update: I’m currently staying in that woman’s house. It’s lovely)
• Sour patch kids are always a bop of a snack. They have black currant as a flavor out here?? It rocks. Other snack highlights include frosted raspberry buns, tons of yogurt, ah just a block of cheese, ginger beer, and the ciabatta pockets from any grocery store, which are still absolutely unbeatable. I don’t know how they make those things so fluffy.
• I’ve met such a funny collection of fellow travelers. I keep running into a British family of 3. They drive. I bike. They say I should be in the Tour de France. I chuckle. As I move further South I also connect with other bike packers!! It’s a blast to trade stories at the pubs and share some miles up big climbs
• There’s some BIG ocean waves out here
• I fear I gave road signs an unfair my poor review last week. So, there’s one sign I’d like to appreciate: “ ! WATERWAY.” This sign warns of a water crossing anywhere from a small trickle to knee deep. At first, I was inclined to skirt around the edges or even walk around these streams entirely. Then, at some point, I accepted the inevitable. My new strategy is now just to let it rip and see what happens. Literally pedaling through water is the answer most of the time, if you’re curious.

Okay, those are most of the frivolous things passing through my head. I hope they can remind you that what you’re doing is probably more important and a little less chaotic. Now, let’s turn to some reflections. Because let me tell you, I’ve had a lotttttt of time to think.

I have the space to cover one main topic here, so I’ll choose wisely. Throughout all my time in New Zealand but especially during some of the more difficult times of this bike trip, I’ve thought about how and how much I communicate with friends. To be honest, I expected to come to NZ and pretty quickly drop off the metaphorical grid (now I’m actually curious if that is metaphorical or literal). That’s usually my style either in the summers when I’m outside or during the school year when I get busy and overwhelmed. But, if anything, I’ve done quite the opposite. I’ve texted, called, and voice-memoed people with a greater frequency than I think I ever have. Especially on this bike trip, I’ve used that communication not just as a mode of relaying life details but also, honestly, to help buoy myself when I’m having a tough time.

In many moments, I get frustrated at myself for spending time on my phone or connecting with people back in the US so much. That’s not the picture of independence or steadiness I like to embody, especially during this year of adventure. Mostly, I write off those frustrations because I’m alone and across the world and if something makes me feel good, I shouldn’t question it. But, as I’ve peen pondering this topic while on the bike, I’m realizing that my initial frustrations are even less than something to try to ignore — they’re actually just silly! First, at plenty of other times in my life I get mad that I don’t stay well enough connected to people that aren’t in my direct proximity. So to get mad at myself for doing the opposite — silly. Second, the fact that I can rely on these friends (and family!) even when I’m across the world and in a different time zone shows that the intention I’ve put into cultivating those relationships has built something substantial. So, maybe I’m not quite as independent as I imagined. But, if the truest form of independence means not creating and purposefully connecting with people, then I’m okay with some dependence.

A shoutout also must go to the connections I’ve made here! Don’t worry, I have friends. Whether it’s fellow awesome female solo-travelers or extremely kind people I meet on the road, I can honestly say that I have felt very welcomed in every place I’ve gone. From invitations for tea to returned car keys, it already feels like a small country indeed.

Okay, that’s a wrap from me. Ate some Oreos and now time to hit the hay. Onto Queenstown tomorrow!

Sending warm wishes,

Jaquelin!